Not what, wat!

With a free upgrade to business class on our Cathay Pacific flight because of Chris' birthday, we left the McDonald's Maharajah burgers of India behind and entered the land of the Samurai Pork burger in Thailand - with a month of spicy food for breakfast, lunch and dinner, the spices were getting a little too much!!!

Th Khao San road

So we have arrived in Thailand, and spent our time here in Bangkok and the Th Khao San area (I'm hearing groaning from those who have been here!!) Th Khao San is in the Banglamphu Neighbourhood and it's were nearly all of the backpackers head. The crazy neon lights of the road (Th) itself should either scare you off or welcome you in and so, after the hectic nature of Delhi, we have enjoyed the wind down.

I don't know how long we planned on staying in Bangkok, but we have been here nearly a week and only moved our location the once - from a £10 per night place with a fan and hot water to a £7 per night room with air con and no hot water - in this heat, the cold water isn't even cold! We have enjoyed doing nothing and lounging about reading books, but now I am frantically trying to sort out travel arrangements and dates to apply for our visas for travel to Laos, Cambodia and Vietnam. A little warning, in the guidebook Chris was reading about Cambodia, it says not to go to the toilet too far off the roads if nature calls, as there are still some unexploded land mines.... certainly something I have never thought of needing to look out for.

Anyway... today we ventured out into Bangkok, not too far - the bus we were waiting for didn't turn up to take us to the main shopping area (fanfares at not spending more money!!) But we did see some of the sights.

After Chris got a haircut and cut throat shave, we walked along the riverbank to a big recreational park called Sanam Luang, from there we traversed the Grand Palace - another place which we still need to visit - and made our way to Wat Pho.

Not only is this the site of the largest reclining Buddha (46m long and 15m wide), but it also houses the largest collection of Buddha images in Thailand. The temples in which the site comprises are extremely ornate and the renovations which are taking place make the area seem like one of the countries from Epcot in Disney world.

I think my problem with some of the places we have visited (and although I am lucky to be able to travel and see the world), is that so many of the sites Chris and I have seen have been replicated in either theme parks or on the Vegas strip, so when you see the originals, some of the element of awe and surprise has been lost despite its historical factor. Fortunately with the reclining Buddha, the sheer size of its feet as I viewed them from outside its 'shelter' was still something to make me say 'wow'!!! And sitting at the Taj Mahal last week and watching time pass by... well, that was special. In order to appreciate things more, I need to take time to admire not only the surroundings but also all that I have seen and the roads I have travelled on this journey. There are still times I need to pinch myself and think am I really here? I'm glad that for the next four and a half months I can still say - yes I am and I've still more to see!

Another trip ends

Our Kathmandu to Delhi trip concluded in the capital of India, Delhi. More on that in a moment.
Before Delhi, we were in Agra and saw the magnificent structure which is the Taj Mahal.
The group only had the afternoon to see it before it closed at Sunset, (and also on Fridays) so we made the most of our time there. Not only is the building a design and architectural dream, but the colourful visitors which it attracts was a sight to watch too, so during our final hour we sat at the centre of the site, near the famous bench where Princess Diana sat and just took in the view - and also saw the actor Gerard Butler or someone who was his twin. (Sources say that he is currently in India so...) People kept asking for photos with Chris and I, so there must be something we don't know.
The whistles of the guards herded us out of the place and to say there were persistent is an understatement. Any last minute photos were blocked by their hands or bodies. They would be the paparazzi's worst nightmare!

We also visited the Red Fort which is another fantastic sight and certainly worth the visit, even for the additional views of the Taj. This place was built by the same man who built the Taj Mahal (King Shah Jahan), so you can imagine its splendour - even when his son imprisoned him there (for spending all the country's wealth)!

(picture of the prison!)

After our quick stop in Agra - and everyone was pleased it was so short as the hassles you get from the local storekeepers are horrible, we all boarded our train to Delhi.

Delhi is a place which has really surprised me. Not only is it not half as noisy and dusty as other places we've visited, but there’s a fantastic metro system which gives you a lovely air-conditioned journey all around the city.

On our final day, Chris and I joined Cori for a 'Culture Vulture' tour of Delhi - old and new.
We saw 5 religious temples and one impressed all of us immensely... the Sheik temple. This place (which I am sure other religions do too) cooks over 3,000 meals for anyone who comes to the place needing fed. No problems with what religion you are or what colour your skin is. It is open to anyone who needs it and is staffed by a mixture of volunteers and paid staff.
We had a cup of Chai and sat taking in humanity at its best. We also were impressed by the size of the pots and the mechanical chapatti machine! We also visited a Jainist temple and they had a 'bird hospital' attached, which looks after all the injured birds, including pigeons and seeing them with bandages on their wings rather than left to die. In such a large city (population is over 15 million), the caring side of others is visible when you are shown the non-tourist side of the fence

We had a walk through the spice market, and wearing sunglasses was a must with chilli powder blowing through the air, you certainly came out 'breathing more easily'!!!

Tonight we leave India and head to Thailand. I have mixed feelings about what I have seen in this country, but one thing I will not miss is the intense heat - mid 40's just gets unbearable and it's only starting to become summer!

Honk, honk, rattle, rattle, rattle, crash, beep, beep.

We've been off the radar for a while due to lack of time and Internet connections. We have now left Nepal and have hit India with a few interesting sights on the way.

Mount Everest one the right as seen through the cockpit.
While in Kathmandu we had to see Mount Everest. At over 8000m the hike to base camp takes you through some very interesting and exciting terrain. The Summit itself is a climb attempted by few and conquered be even fewer. We decided the comfort of a plane was the easiest way to see the highest mountain in the world and a spectacular view of some of the Himalayas.

We joined our latest overland trip on the 11th, Kathmandu to Delhi. Another interesting and mixed group of people with a varied itinerary showing us some of the highlights of Nepal and India. Nepal is littered with temples for the Buddhist and Tibetan monks. One of the largest Buddhist temples, Pasupatinath, seems well looked after and is very clean, the Tibetan temple - Baudhanath, called the monkey temple wasn't the cleanest, ......

The Buddhist Temple of Pasupatinath

Kathmandu is a dirty run down city. Litter lies in the gullies and the noise of the constant horns and bells, over worked engines on the overladen vehicles (motorbikes, tuk-tuks and cars/trucks) and the smog combined with the heat make the city very claustrophobic. With load sharing of electricity in the area, we had a lot of interesting walks back to our accommodation past candlelit shops and homes. It is a city to awaken the senses be that good or bad. I was glad to leave and head for the Chitwan National Park although I would go back to Kathmandu.

Mummy and Baby Rhino
We notched up a few more animals while at Chitwan. An Elephant sanctuary allowed us to see the Indian Elephant (no such thing as Nepalese Elephants, they must be on holiday).and the only surviving twin elephants born in captivity. Considering pregnancy lasts 22 months that's a long time to carry that much weight. A bit of Delhi Belly (something on holiday from India with the elephants) meant Jude and I missed he 12Km walk through the park.. Everyone said we where the lucky ones as temperatures in the shade hit close to 40 degrees. An elephant safari allowed us to see the Rhino which like the elephant is smaller than those in Africa but the skin on the Indian Rhino looks like it is armour plating. We only saw one tiger in captivity but it was a magnificent animal. As a cub it's mother killed a local villager and having tasted human blood it was not possible to let the animal stay in the wild.

Tiger munching on Buffallo
We moved on to Lumbini for our next stop. The birthplace of Buddha, Lumbini wasn't quite what I expected.Maybe it is because we are in low season but the town is very small, not much Electricity and few eating places. The one place we did find was 1/4 of the price of the hotel, better in the local pocket.

Inside these walls,the exact spot where Budda was Born, protected by a glass case.

As we left Nepal everyone was expecting a change in culture. It didn't really happen. There are more big trucks in India, the roads are wider but that just helps have more vehicles side by side. The guy with his nose in front has right of way so you reach far enough forward then turn in, forcing everyone else to brake and/or turn. Similar rule applies for junctions. First vehicle there keeps going unless you arrive at the same time, in which case size matters. Nobody has a new car in India, when you scrape between a tuk-tuk and a cow, car, truck and rickshaw whats the point.

Varanasi is THE pilgrimage site for the Hindu. The Ganges is the life blood of India and Varanasi is the soul. Dying here is considered an honour and open air cremations on the banks of the Ganges help spread your body to the elements: fire, water, air, earth and somewhere else which I can't remember. For Hindus, the belief is your sins are cleansed and you are released from the cycle of life an death. The Ganges, because of it's status is used for open air bathing and rituals. That many people mean the water isn't the cleanest but our boat ride started up stream in a less crowded area. This was a two day journey down the river with an overnight on a beach. Relaxing and fun when Jude and I got our turn to row. The two man crew of our boat drank straight from the river, similar colour as the Lagan in Belfast except for the cows cooling off. They must have stomachs of steel.

Some of the 86 Ghats (for different traditions) Some are better maintained than oters, all have steps into the Ganges.

Silk is a big export from India and the chance to see some of the local mills was very interesting. The quality and skill in some of the fabrics they create is fantastic and the prices where a fraction of the cost in Europe or America. It wasn't a child labour sweat shop for those wondering. The looms are fantastic to watch in operation and the skills of the workers are amazing. Silk is finer than human hair and if you want to test for quality, it burns like human hair. Plastic/fake silk burns into a ball. I didn't realise the difference in quality available some of the fabrics we where shown where like cotton.

An interesting Tuk-Tuk journey through the back streets had us hit a motorbike, a rickshaw and a small wall. We also got a rear end shunt from another eager tuk-tuk driver. The best sight however was seeing a Policeman punish a rickshaw driver who was going down the street the wrong way. Slapping the elderly gentleman several times round the head might make him think twice about doing it again, but I doubt it.

So now we are in Orchha. Lots more temples, a few palaces and an old English gentleman's residence greeted us after an overnight train from Varanasi. The train was enjoyable and not too cramped with 3 bunks on each wall, no doors and the usual squat toilet straight onto the tracks. I'm glad we had the air-con carriage, it as 41 degrees yesterday.

3 Each side, it could have been worse.

Trekkers, hippies and us!

(one of the newer side streets)

We are now in Kathmandu, Nepal. It's an interesting, noisy, polluted but friendly place. Our arrival yesterday was yesterday with one of us having to accompany our transfer driver (Raj) out of the airport complex and back in with his car - security was that tight.

Being driven to the hotel meant we could take in the sights and sounds of Kathmandu. For our 30 min drive we have concluded that everyone drives with their horns blaring down the narrow streets, motorbikes are a law onto themselves but our hotel is a welcome rest.

With the vaccinations of last week kicking in, we are fighting off colds (it might be from the skiing but I don't think so -they started before that). I've also suffered aches and pains (definitely from the skiing) but we shall struggle on. We hope to see Mount Everest in the next day or two, today was bliss with nowhere specific to go, no alarm was needed. Most of the day was relaxed, reading in the hotel but tonight, like last night we explore.

(one of the cafes with free wifi)

Aches, pains, colds and strains.......

Our trip takes us to some of the poorest and richest countries in the world. Dubai is certainly one of the richest. Wealth and riches can be seen all around. The city has grown very quickly in the past 5 years with huge skyscrapers and private islands, many palaces and shopping malls. We never would have imagined sitting at a Polo match during our trip or seeing the world's tallest building (not quite finished). The Burj Al Arab or the sail (in the picture) was one of the tallest, it is certainly one of the most striking. At $1300 per night - we stayed with family instead and enjoyed every moment.

(The very top)

Something else we hadn't planned on was skiing. 30 degrees outside, -3 degrees inside. Bizarre is an understatement and we were both a bit rusty but after two hours, a few falls and a couple of scary moments we were like professionals. (if you count Eddie the Eagle as a pro.)

(Jude at the middle)

Take Two!

We have kicked off our second part of the trip in Dubai and are very kindly staying with my cousin Gavin and his family. Already we have been experiencing so many things, Meghan's class play (where she was the first of three Florence Nightingales) and today we attended Gregor's Rugby match and also had a chance to watch some polo.

Dubai seems to be a lovely place - and it is not too hot just yet. Our arrival from the airport brought us onto their lovely smooth roads and past some of the construction sites. There are 9 Tiffany stores here and with shopping malls open until midnight - I will be in shopping heaven!

(photos: Chris and Elspeth

and the polo match)

It's no April Fool

Today we start of second half of the trip. Here is an outline of the itinerary...

1/4 London to Dubai
7/4 Dubai to Kathmandu via Bahrain
11/4 Kathmandu to Delhi overland with trip NSK
28/4 Delhi to Bangkok
Own arrangements from Bangkok to Hong Kong
8/6 Hong Kong to Singapore return
15/6 Hong Kong to Beijing with trip ACRC
4/7 Beijing to Tokyo
8/7 Tokyo to Vancouver
Own arrangements to Seattle
14/7 Seattle to Dallas
19/7 Dallas to Kentucky
23/7 Kentucky to Chicago
26/7 Chicago to New York
23/9 New York to home!