Tuesday, 9 June 2009

More photos from the Temples of Angkor

Chris at Ta Prohm



The entrance to Angkor Thom


One of the heads carved in the Bayon


Chris and I at Ta Prohm - the site of Tomb Raider.


Wat a site!

The famous spires of Angkor Wat - symbol on the Cambodian flag

The main reason for visiting Cambodia for a lot of people is to go to Siem Reap and visit The Temples of Angkor. Cambodia is full of temples of various size and status. Siem Reap (the town) is only a few Km's away from the main temples, the biggest and most impressive being Angkor Wat. this is the largest religious structure in the world and very impressive - from the Angkorian period.

Chris and I arrived at about 10:30 and the sun was already beating down. We took a long walk across the moat and into the santcum of Angkor Wat. The size of this site is amazing. The way the buildings are being preserves and the artistic creativity of the carvings are breathtaking. Not only in the site of Angkor Wat but in all the temples and buildings throughout.

Researchers concluded that Angkor had been the largest preindustrial city in the world with an urban sprawl of 3000 square kilometres and could accommodation upto one million people.

There are over 37 Temples and a visit of over a week is recommended! We managed to visit 5 before the rain made the ground muddy and the going a lot harder. The photos don't do the place justice as the size of the Temples and the steps leading throughout the site are so big and steep. It is also a perfect place for kids to play hide and seek!

Anyway, here are the photos...Our first view of Angor Wat


View across the moat to Angkor WatThe library- one of the first buildings you come to

Friday, 5 June 2009

Camvbodia and the Kymer Rouge

Cambodia is another war torn country in South east asia. Again I had to read a bit of the history to understand what had went on.
History lesson time. As part of Indochina (under the french) everything was going well until WW2 when Japan moved in. When the french moved back they allowed opposition parties to form and they fought for and gained independance in 1953. In the 70's there is a big coup which forces the king into excile, the Cambodians start helping the Americans fight the Vietnamese within Cambodia. Early 70's the Kymer Rouge appear and start fighting the army, 1975 everyone is evacuated out of the cities and towns and put to work rebuilding Cambodia (Democratic Kampuchea as it was then called), starting with agriculture. Everyone works in the field for the government and if you don't work, you don't eat, don't follow the rules you die; complain, you die; Speak out of turn, you die. Hard maual labour for EVERYONE. Thousands flee, thousands die and eventually the Vietnamese overthrow the Kymer Rouge, Guerilla warfar continues until '89 when Cambodia is given it's name. There are still tensions with Thailand today, still political struggles and trials for Kymer Rouge leaders but if you read the accounts of the Kymer Rouge it is again hard to imagine the attrocities that took place in 'modern' society. It's not something we hear about in the local news. The history of the area is interesting but it seems most people are trying to put it behind them and move on.

We didn't go to the killing fields, A tourist destination which explains alot about the regime of the Kymer Rouge. We just didn't have time. I hadn't really thought about Cambodian history until our guide book mentioned to be careful if caught short while in the countyside. Don't stary too far from the road as Cambodia has more unexploded ordinance than anywere else on earth. (ie lots of landmines)

Vietnam, past and Present

Saigon is the capital of Vietnam also called Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon is the 'city' where as Ho Chi Minh is the 'area'.... apparently) It is a very big place filled wih lots of people and lots of motorbikes. We flew down from Hue to avoid another long bus or train journey and were quite surprised at the size of the place. Big wide roads, KFC, Pizza hut and coffee shops.

It's hard to visit Vietnam and not think about the war. In Saigon we spent a day going round the reunification palace and the War remnants museum.
The Grand Palace - only for public functions but still very grand
I had to read up on the war in Vietnam to understand a bit about it. Basically the french ruled this part of the world - Indochina. It all changed with WW2, the Americans got involved in the 50's and the country split in two. The North and South fought, the Americans moved in to help the south (the vietnam war as we know it) and then they got kicked out by the United Nations around 1973-75ish. The South surrendered to the north a year or two later. The Reunification Palace was the ruling palace of the south Vietnamese 'regime' and when it was taken over the Civil war ended and peace was declared in the communist country.A rather large bomb used by the Americans
The war was brutal and the Museum shows in graphic detail the attrocities carried out by the Americans. It is very informative but the expression on everyone is the same as they walk around. The Napalm, Agent Orange and other chemical warfare tactics, the brutal killings and mindless destruction. It still effects the people today. To be fair the museum was across biased but then, I've only ever seen the American films and their portrayal. The best images of the war were in a section which showed photos from Photographers who died during the war from all over the world. Again the images were graphic but they captured a lot of suffering on both sides.

We left the museum in a strange mood but we were glad that we had been. In all the countries we visit there is some history which in unpleasant. In Aisia it seems the history isn't that long ago and therefore better documented.

Ode to Dad - Motorbikes in Asia

A lot of photos you see in Asia have motorbikes in them. Since we arrived in Nepal in April the standard of vehicles, riders and driving has amazed us. The Motorbike is the work-horse of Asia. Moving from A to B, carrying equipment, ferrying people, in all weathers the motorbikes and scooters are transformed to meet the needs of the people.Rush hour in Saigon, every road was the same.

Getting to work is easier on a bike. Nipping in and out of traffic, through the narrow streets or along the footpaths is quicker with only two wheels. What if you could take your work to you bike. You could walk to work, take you work home or even take your work on holiday. In the photo below, this food vendor has attached a kitchen. Not only can he take his work anywhere but if he gets hungry, hey presto !
Many bikes are 'adapted' for carrying equipment and people either on the side or behind

Passengers, what's the point of a bike if you can't share it. A trip to the shops or to visit friends can be enjoyed more when you are accompanied. Ensure your pillion is secure and properly protected. India bikers have adapted their bikes with protective bars. Wouldn't want the wife's Saree caught in the spokes or chain. Also note the crash bars on the front. This sample is the small set, expanding the bars can assist with saving limbs from oncoming bikes, cars, carts and trucks, carrying shopping or simply taking out the opposition.
Crash bars and wheel guards are essential, the grab rail at the back is for tying things down.

Picking up the wife from the hairdressers, don't even offer her a helmet to ruin the new ponytail. Anyway, if you don't own the bike, you can't get hurt if you fall off.
How many people in this picture? Look closely.

And don't forget the kids. It's not just adults who should enjoy a ride on the back or front of a bike. Children can have as much fun. Better still, why not take the family. Nursing a child, no problem, the pets can come also. Again with the helmets, it's not really necessary as long as the owner has one. Although the bike below is bigger so it's safer if everyone wears a helmet, baby junior on the front doesn't count cause he's not big enough to fall off.

This is normal, maximum we saw on a scooter was 5.

Parking your bike is never a problem. Simply stop, put the stand down and dismount. It can be useful to other people if you move to the side of the road/pavement. Other bikes may park beside you in congested areas, or behind you, or both. In moving their bike to get to yours, do not drop it, the results could be funny only to on lookers.
Two rows of bikes, very tightly parked in Kathmandu,
I was so tempted to knock the first one......

I thought I better mention about safety. Protecting the head is important on a motorbike. Even if going slowly. The people of Saigon above use scarves to protect themselves from the dust and dirt. In Laos the sun is very strong so a different kind of protection is needed.
This is a small umbrella, when it rains the Big table unmbrellas can be seen.

If you find yourself on a bike in any Asian country do take care. Use your horn, the pavements and your small size to your advantage. Take precautions from the dust and sun and if it all gets too much, just take a break. Some people can sleep anywhere.

Saturday, 30 May 2009

New friends and old

Chris and I with Caterina and Thao

Before we left in September, Chris signed us both up for something called Couchsurfing - which is an online website which allows you to stay with a local, in varying degrees of comfort, basically for free. There is also an option if you want to find out more about a specific city, to meet someone for a coffee and a chat...
from the website Couchsurfing state: CouchSurfing isn't about the furniture- it's not just about finding free accommodations around the world- it's about participating in creating a better world. We strive to make a better world by opening our homes, our hearts, and our lives. .. CouchSurfing wants to change not only the way we travel, but how we relate to the world!
I was a little sceptical in participating at all. But without having any experience of this new surfing world, I was talked into meeting up with the local Couchsurfing ambassador in Hue, a lovely girl called Thao. We met, were shown round a lot of the less touristy parts of Hue and were also introduced to another Couchsurfer who was in Hue for only a day. After the whole experience I feel a lot more confortable with the idea of surfing etc... and I may well be talked into actually staying in someone's home - who we have only met online, in the next few months.

Chris at the Imperial Palace, Hue (inside the Cidetal)

After a tour of Hue, Chris and I headed down along the coast to a beautiful part of Vietnam called Hoi An. It was an area which was originally on the 'to see' list, but we were going to miss it out, and I am so pleased that we didn't. Not only because I got a lovely pair of shoes made and also got a lovely dress made to fit too, but more importantly, we managed to catch up with a long time friend and fellow work colleague Elaine.
Ellie and Elaine

Elaine has been travelling since Feb '08 and is on the final few weeks of her journey. It was lovely catching up with her and finding out all about the places she has been to etc... some which we will be heading to, so it's great for a 'heads up'. We met up in Hoi An, making sure we stayed at the same hotel, and had a lovely afternoon and evening together. It was strange having more than one Northern Irish accent at the table! (Elaine met a girl called Ellie from Norn Iron too!!).

So with the wallet a little lighter - one day in Hoi An and I'm pleased we didn't have more time for shopping (this place is certainly somewhere we're coming back to) we boarded our plane to Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) and arrived in the heart of backpacker district at 8:30pm tonight.
We're here for a few days so we'll have a look at the museums etc.

Wednesday, 27 May 2009

Hue to go !!!

Laos was a country which will hold special memories for both Judith and I. Not great memories but special ones. We spent most of our time in Laos travelling and the main places we stayed were touristy. It is a place I would go back to if only to see the real Laos and I would definately fly!Patuxai Arch - Vientiane

Another mamouth journey saw us leaving Vang Vieng via minibus to Vientiane in Laos then to Vinh by 'VIP' bus to get a train to Hue (pronounced Hoo-way) in Vietnam. After Laos we decided to cut out a bit of traveling and bypass Hanoi. A bit of a disappointment but we have realized just how many places we have tried to cram in and after a while your body says take a break. A 16 hour bus journey and an 8 hour train journey got us to a decent hotel (decent by our standards, not average western standards). The Bus was fine, we got seats that didn't have 50KG bags of rice wedged in front and they were not too bad. A bit dificult to sleep comfortably but after moving our backpacs about, letting Jude spread out on the floor and being careful not to kick the head of the girl sprawled out opposite I managed to sleep 'comfortably'. That is sleep comfortably in bewtween police checks, snoring men, badly dubbed movies and swerving round corners avoiding cows, buses, cars, trucks and roadworks. It was comforting to know the drivers didn't drive tired. We stopped for 3 hours while the driver slept. Arriving at the border for opening at 7:00, crossing the border only took 3 hours of bagage checks, forms, and waiting.
The 'VIP' bus - Glad it wasn't the non-vip!
The 'in-flight' movie on the bus was a Jackie Chan film. I love his films, mostly for the funny fight sequences . Thai/Vietnamese programmes have an unusual dubbing service for their films and TV. The have one person will dub all the dialogue. Not one person per character or one male/one female, they have one female saying all the lines of all the charcters. In the background you can hear the original language (chinese in this case) and very faintly some of the music/atmospheric sounds. I plugged in my Ipod and just read the English subtitles which where mixed with the chinese subtitles. In a restaurant in Vinh (waiting for the train) we saw a soap opera which had all the sound removed and the same female talking for all of the parts. Very difficult to watch.

Our train journey wasn't a huge amount better. We had fun in the station waiting because we where a novelty. Several young people sat beside us and practiced their English skills with us, we even learnt how to properly say some vietnamese phrases much to the hilarity of the locals. The train was at 10:17pm and while waiting we got online in a local hotel foyer and checked out some bits and pieces. Trains come with many different carriages. Our seats where on the airconditoned soft seat section. No room on the hard or soft sleeper section and we didn't want to chance the hard seats. Climbing onboard the carriage was already filled with bodies, half asleep chairs fully reclined and we had to squeeze ourselves into our seats. It wasn't too bad once you fell asleep and we were that tired, it didn't take long.

Hue is a big and busy town, even at 6:30am. We intend to explore, sort ourselves out and sort out some plans for future stops. We should also take some more photo's, our camera's have been used very little of late.