Wednesday 22 April 2009

Honk, honk, rattle, rattle, rattle, crash, beep, beep.

We've been off the radar for a while due to lack of time and Internet connections. We have now left Nepal and have hit India with a few interesting sights on the way.
Mount Everest one the right as seen through the cockpit.
While in Kathmandu we had to see Mount Everest. At over 8000m the hike to base camp takes you through some
very interesting and exciting terrain. The Summit itself is a climb attempted by few and conquered be even fewer. We decided the comfort of a plane was the easiest way to see the highest mountain in the world and a spectacular view of some of the Himalayas.
We joined our latest overland trip on the 11th, Kathmandu to Delhi. Another interesting and mixed group of people with a varied itinerary showing us some of the highlights of Nepal and India. Nepal is littered with temples for the Buddhist and Tibetan monks. One of the largest Buddhist temples, Pasupatinath, seems well looked after and is very clean, the Tibetan temple - Baudhanath, called the monkey temple wasn't the cleanest, ......
The Buddhist Temple of Pasupatinath

Kathmandu is a dirty run down city. Litter lies in the gullies and the noise of the constant horns and bells, over worked engines on the overladen vehicles (motorbikes, tuk-tuks and cars/trucks) and the smog combined with the heat make the city very claustrophobic. With load sharing of electricity in the area, we had a lot of interesting walks back to our accommodation past candlelit shops and homes. It is a city to awaken the senses be that good or bad. I was glad to leave and head for the Chitwan National Park although I would go back to Kathmandu.
Mummy and Baby Rhino
We notched up a few more animals while at Chitwan. An Elephant sanctuary allowed us to see the Indian Elephant (no such thing as Nepalese Elephants, they must be on holiday).and the only surviving twin elephants born in captivity. Considering pregnancy lasts 22 months that's a long time to carry that much weight. A bit of Delhi Belly (something on holiday from India with the elephants) meant Jude and I missed he 12Km walk through the park.. Everyone said we where the lucky ones as temperatures in the shade hit close to 40 degrees.
An elephant safari allowed us to see the Rhino which like the elephant is smaller than those in Africa but the skin on the Indian Rhino looks like it is armour plating. We only saw one tiger in captivity but it was a magnificent animal. As a cub it's mother killed a local villager and having tasted human blood it was not possible to let the animal stay in the wild.
Tiger munching on Buffallo
We moved on to Lumbini for our next stop. The birthplace of Buddha, Lumbini wasn't quite what I expected.Maybe it is because we are in low season but the town is very small, not much Electricity and few eating places. The one place we did find was 1/4 of the price of the hotel, better in the local pocket.
Inside these walls,the exact spot where Budda was Born, protected by a glass case.

As we left Nepal everyone was expecting a change in culture. It didn't really happen. There are more big trucks in India, the roads are wider but that just helps have more vehicles side by side. The guy with his nose in front has right of way so you reach far enough forward then turn in, forcing everyone else to brake and/or turn. Similar rule applies for junctions. First vehicle there keeps going unless you arrive at the same time, in which case size matters. Nobody has a new car in India, when you scrape between a tuk-tuk and a cow, car, truck and rickshaw whats the point.
Varanasi is THE pilgrimage site for the Hindu. The Ganges is the life blood of India and Varanasi is the soul. Dying here is considered an honour and open air cremations on the banks of the Ganges help spread your body to the elements: fire, water, air, earth and somewhere else which I can't remember. For Hindus, the belief is your sins are cleansed and you are released from the cycle of life an death. The Ganges, because of it's status is used for open air bathing and rituals. That many people mean the water isn't the cleanest but our boat ride started up stream in a less crowded area. This was a two day journey down the river with an overnight on a beach. Relaxing and fun when Jude and I got our turn to row. The two man crew of our boat drank straight from the river, similar colour as the Lagan in Belfast except for the cows cooling off. They must have stomachs of steel.
Some of the 86 Ghats (for different traditions) Some are better maintained than oters, all have steps into the Ganges.

Silk is a big export from India and the chance to see some of the local mills was very interesting. The quality and skill in some of the fabrics they create is fantastic and the prices where a fraction of the cost in Europe or America. It wasn't a child labour sweat shop for those wondering. The looms are fantastic to watch in operation and the skills of the workers are amazing. Silk is finer than human hair and if you want to test for quality, it burns like human hair. Plastic/fake silk burns into a ball. I didn't realise the difference in quality available some of the fabrics we where shown where like cotton.
An interesting Tuk-Tuk journey through the back streets had us hit a motorbike, a rickshaw and a small wall. We also got a rear end shunt from another eager tuk-tuk driver. The best sight however was seeing a Policeman punish a rickshaw driver who was going down the street the wrong way. Slapping the elderly gentleman several times round the head might make him think twice about doing it again, but I doubt it.
So now we are in Orchha. Lots more temples, a few palaces and an old English gentleman's residence greeted us after an overnight train from Varanasi. The train was enjoyable and not too cramped with 3 bunks on each wall, no doors and the usual squat toilet straight onto the tracks. I'm glad we had the air-con carriage, it as 41 degrees yesterday.
3 Each side, it could have been worse.

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